The one that the Durello, a Veneto grape variety, can be a viable alternative for the producers of sparkling classic method, is a hypothesis circulating for some time. But it is not only the Veneto that can offer such an opportunity. Campania, in fact, has a vine equally valid to achieve the same result: the Asprinio.
Grapes and climate change
U.S. President Donald Trump is one of the most steadfast deniers of the phenomenon of climate change. The 45 ° president of the United States, in fact, since he was elected, has repeatedly sided against the policy of his predecessor, Barack Obama, about the issue of reducing Gas emissions into the Environment.
The rise in temperature, however, is now undeniable. Even the Pentagon, a few days ago, went against the tendency compared to Trump, stating that well 3500 US bases are in danger due to extreme climatic phenomena.
Of climate changes are well aware especially the winegrowers. More especially, those who produce sparkling wines with the classic method.
The classic method consists in refermenting a mixture of base wines, called the Cuvée, in bottle. Winemakers add a mixture of sugars and yeasts to wine, and the yeasts transform the sugars into ethyl alcohol and enrich the foam wine.
The wines used for the classic method are, in general, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Wines chosen, in particular, for their acidity. A characteristic that today is increasingly lacking, in these grapes, because of the hot summers that produce high sugar content.
Bringing new vineyards to prohibitive altitudes wasn’t a good solution, but nature seems to have provided the producers with two valid alternatives: The Durello Veneto and the Asprinio, from Campania region.
Two grapes, two wines
The Durello, or Durella, originates from Veneto region. It has this name due to the leathery peel of its berries. In contrast, the Asprinio is typical of the Campania region, precisely from Aversa, where the homonymous DOC is produced.
The Durello has always been used as a cutting wine, but for a few years the producers are making it even by themselves, in the variants Charmat and Classic. An example is the Lessini Durello DOC. The Asprinio has a different story from the Lessini, a story of which soon we will talk about in a special article, presenting a great producer of this wine from the Campania region, Salvatore Martusciello.
The history of the Asprinio is particular, but it also lends itself to this type of production. And it does it so much that the family company in which Salvatore specialized himself, “Grotta del Sole”, produced the Asprinio as a classic method.
Durello and Asprinio are similar because they are born on volcanic territories, with elements that give flavor to the wines.
So why not take advantage of this opportunity?
Among the producers of Durello, as reported also the Sun 24 Ore, we have Giannitessari from Roncà (VR), the consortium of the Lessini Durello Spumante and Fongaro of Roncà (VR).
Campania, instead, in addition to Martusciello that produces Asprinio with the Martinotti Method, this Grape is also worked by Masseria Campino, which will be one of the next destinations of Ritmodivino.
Will one of these producers come out of the classic method of tomorrow?